Suffer Machine - Stanley Headwall

Name of climb

Suffer Machine

Ice quality was:

Good

Wind was:

• Blowing snow above the climb
• Blowing snow on the climb

The day was:

• Cold
• Sunny

Great day on at Stanley headwall. We climbed Suffer Machine M7/WI5+. Day started pretty cold with -17 at the parking lot). Even we the recent snow fall we felt good with the snow conditions on the approach (which is North facing) although there was some big accumulations in certain areas which were a bit unsettling , specially in between Nemesis and Suffer Machine. There was spindrift on the climb and wind picked up around 1pm. The first pitch is lacking ice on the transition which made it a bit more challenging. 2nd and 3rd pitches ice was a bit broken with a lot of snow pockets. Last pitch had blue and mostly uniform ice. More spindrift on the rappel but again nothing major. We enjoyed some good turns on the way down in deep powder.

Temperature warmed up to -5 during the day and was -12 when we got to the car in the afternoon.