Whiteman Falls Climb
Whiteman Falls
WI 6
ATES 2 (Challenging)
Whiteman Falls is a spectacular two pitch climb located in the heart of Kananaskis Country. The climb begins with a deep and fantastic approach inside a canyon, climbing a 25 m grade 2/3 pitch along with a few short sections of ice and walking. As you progress up the canyon and around several corners, the awe-inspiring sight of the massive pillar of Whiteman Falls comes into view. It’s truly an impressive place.
Popularity
- 17 people completed the survey
- 52% climbed it 1-5 times
- 47% climbed it over 6 times
Avalanche Frequency
- 36% have seen avalanche debris on the climb or the approach
- 12% have witnessed an avalanche in the area
Avalanche Start Zones
- 50% of respondents believe the avalanche started right above the climb
- 50% of respondents did not know where the avalanche started
Notes on Avalanche Debris
- Many noted debris in the gash/gully on the climber’s right of the approach. This is the same gash/gully used as part of the walk-off descent.
- Reports state that debris depths have carried from less than 1 m to 1.5 m in the approach at the bottom of the valley.
- Reports state that snow and avalanche debris can fill up the canyon, making it difficult to find anchors to rappel from.
- Large chunks of ice were reported as falling from sections of the climb.
- There are multiple reports of avalanche debris seen on drainage paths the approach.
Reported Avalanches and Incidents
- Sluffs large enough to knock someone down have been reported on the climbing route.
- Natural avalanches have been reported.
- Avalanches were reported after periods of snow.
- An avalanche was reported on the approach on an afternoon in November, around 2:30 pm, as climbers were leaving the area. The avalanche is believed to have been triggered by warming and solar radiation.
Contributing Factors
- 100% were attributed to new snow amounts
- 50% were attributed to warming and solar radiation
- 50% were attributed to a cornice or rockfall trigger
Images
Summary
In the approach drainage, there are multiple paths approximately 100 m in length that produce natural slides that runout into the approach drainage. Additionally, the presence of exposed water at the top of the climb (i.e., no ice at the top out) is also a hazard.
Careful placement of the belay is critical, as the climb often sheds sizeable blocks of ice. During storm events, large slides can occur in the narrow section of the approach from the slopes on climber’s right.
Due to the steep walls and narrow approach canyon, wall sluffing on snowy and warm days can make the canyon a potential terrain trap.