Shades of Beauty/Rick Blak Memorial

Shades of Beauty climb showing avalanche terrain in red

Shades of Beauty

110 m WI4

ATES 3 (Complex)

Shades of Beauty is a classic climb along the Icefields Parkway.  It has three tiers which make for comfortable belays and shorter, steep pitches. Its neighbour, Rick Blak Memorial, is a one-pitch WI5 route that can be a nice addition to the day.

Popularity

  • 40 people completed the survey
  • 35% climbed it one time
  • 32% climbed it 2–5 times
  • 32% climbed it six or more times

Avalanche Debris Frequency

  • 56% of respondents have never seen any avalanche debris on the climb or the approach
  • 33% have seen debris less than half the time they climbed the route
  • 10% have seen avalanche debris more than half of the time

Debris Location

  • 81% of respondents saw debris on the approach
  • 63% saw it at the base of the climb or lower
  • 31% saw it between the pitches
  • 13% saw it above the last pitch

User Observations on Avalanche Debris:

  • Many people noted older but large debris, mostly later in the spring, and all seemed to have come from above the climb.
  • Many people noted debris 100 m below climb, less then 1 m deep.
  • "I have observed debris from large destructive avalanches going all the way to the creek. Debris was visible on the lower pitches and approach slopes of Shades of Beauty and indicated a size 2-3 avalanche. 
  • "I have seen debris halfway to the creek. The first pitch was completely buried, up to 3 m deep."
A steep mountain with avalanche paths originating in the alpine

Avalanche Observations

  • 6% have witnessed an avalanche in the area
  • 94% have never witnessed an avalanche in the area

Trigger

  • 100% of respondents say the avalanche was triggered naturally.

Contributing factors

  • 43% of respondents believe that new snow amounts contributed to the avalanche
  • 57% winds
  • 43% significant warming

Start Zone

  • 100% of respondents say it started well above the climb

User Observations on Avalanches and Incidents

  • "While we were climbing Shades of Beauty a size 1.5 to size 2 avalanche was triggered. It happened while my partner started up the first pitch. The avalanche came to the right (climbers right). We bailed quickly and headed for the trees where two more smaller ones went (all on the sides of the climb). This happened around 9:00 am. Winds were quite strong and picked up significantly while we approached."
  • "From observing the terrain above the climb, I deduced that the debris I saw came from the slopes high above the climb, as there is a clear slide path that runs above the climb."
  • "I viewed an avalanche from highway. People don't realize that there are significant paths hidden through the open trees above. The start zone is on the north side of the rounded ridge below the buttress. There can be cornice formation here on occasion."
A zoomed in photo of an ice climb with the pitches numbered

Summary

  • "The debris l saw was deep and powerful, with small trees fully buried in the path. The slope above the climb is a large, cross-loaded feature, going from wind scoured on the right, to deep slab towards the left, with notable large wind deposits. It sees a lot of sun in March, in the early morning."
  • "The approach slope is known to frequently slide, and there is an avalanche path overtop and slightly to the right of Shades of Beauty."
  • "I’ve seen photos of various years when ice quality was still good but there were lots of loose wet avalanches that had made it down to valley floor."
  • "I’ve seen significant wind transport into the gully above Shades of Beauty/Rick Blak Memorial, across the shoulder that separates Shades of Beauty and the Stage and the Wings."